One of the unexpected pleasures of travelling as an author is the sense of feeling immediately at home in an unknown city because it has libraries, bookshops, a culture of reading and creating spaces for readers.
I’ve felt this on first visits to great cities such as New York and London, but also in places such as Dublin or Kozhikode in Kerala, which last year became one of Unesco’s 53 Cities of Literature — and India’s first.
When I visited two years ago, Kozhikode was hosting an exuberant festival for writers across India on its magnificent beach, on the legendary Malabar Coast. It has nurtured Malayalam authors, from SK Pottekkatt to MT Vasudevan Nair and Indu Menon, and has a remarkable 550 libraries, over 70 publishers, and about 100 bookshops strung out across lanes fringed with coconut palms.
Most of all, though, Kozhikode felt welcoming because it so gladly made space for readers as part of the ebb and flow of city life.
Cities have to apply to be a Unesco City of Literature, a list that includes obvious choices such as Edinburgh, Iowa City and Beirut, but also more unexpected places, from to Taif in Saudi Arabia to Lviv in Ukraine, which has since transformed itself into a hub for refugees and those affected by the war. The Unesco committees rate applicants on factors such as quality and quantity of publishing, number of bookshops, literary festivals and events, and an active translation scene.